It keeps a'coming!

What greeted me in Gostivar!

 Saturday I was in Prilep to do a project design and management workshop for some wonderful teens in Phebe's CLIPS program.  Now project management and design is not the most fascinating subject for most people, much less high schoolers, but these kids jumped right in and designed some great projects, and it was truly a delight to get to work with them.  The only worry - it was snowing all day and I had to get back to Gostivar.  After a marvelous lunch at the only Thai restaurant in Macedonia, I hopped on the 4:30 combi that cut across the middle of Macedonia to Kichevo.  Halfway there, we were slipping and sliding all over the road, and the driver shouted out for people to sit in the back.  With the weight distributed over the rear axle, we made it safely to Kichevo, a little late but all in one piece.

The ticket master told me the bus to Gostivar was coming at 6:45, so I sat on the bench outside and waited.  A man asked me where I was going, and I said Gostivar.  He was going to Skopje, so we would be on the same bus.  Thank heavens.  The bus hadn't arrived by 7, but the ticketmaster stuck her head out the window and shouted something, and the man took off running.  Turned out the bus had decided not to come into the station, and we needed to meet it out on the highway.  I was very relieved when it arrived and I climbed on.

But that didn't last long.  About 20 minutes into the trip we came to a dead stop.  Traffic was piled up and not moving.  Of course, having been traveling now for several hours, I really needed to use a bathroom.  We were in the foothills of the mountains, cars, buses and trucks in front and in back, and no place to go.  I was trying to figure out what might be next - sleeping all night on the bus (but with no bathroom in sight), giving up on vanity and relieving myself in front of the world, or waiting for the bus to either turn around or get going.  Fortunately, after a half hour we did start moving again, and about 30 minutes later we reached the crest of the pass where the driver pulled over by the restaurant and gas station there and announced:  "Pauser.  Decet minuta."

The trip over the mountains was magical and felt like a Tim Burton set.  Snow was piled high on both sides, but tree branches covered in snow hung over and alongside the bus, like white fingers extending out from a tunnel trying to grab us.  There was not much we could ever see but white, white and more white.

Note the snow is piled higher than the car

When we reached Gostivar, the driver pulled over to the side of the road and dumped us Gostivarans out.  There was no way he was going to try to navigate the snowy streets of Gostivar.  I walked up the exit into Gostivar, wondering what I would do if a car came - the passage was only just wide enough for a car.  Fortunately none came, and I reached the surreal streets of Gostivar.

Looking down the narrow walkway

Since there were no taxis, I walked from the edge of town to my apartment.  It had snowed enough that the snow covered the ice well and it was not slippery, but the paths were narrow and the snow was piled up was higher than I am tall.  Lights were on, and occasionally I'd pass a cajtorija where men were playing cards.  It was quite beautiful and dramatic, quiet as only a city covered in deep snow can be.

I was very happy to get back to my apartment and snuggle in, but for the most part, I did enjoy the ride.  Each and every day is an adventure!!!

What a world!

Me, Kerry and Marlys jumping for joy!

As I think I mentioned in my last blog, I received an extra 30 days of leave for extending a year in the Peace Corps.  The days are added on to the end of my service, so now my completion date is the end of December instead of the end of November, but it's nice to have those days in the middle of service and Peace Corps gave me a free flight home!  I took 3 weeks of those days for my trip home, and took the rest for my trip to Egypt with 5 friends.  I won't say much here about the trip except it exceeded any and all expectations I had.  It was fabulous.  I've posted my pictures with some commentary on Facebook, so if you want to see more you can see it there.
I do want to comment on Egypt, however.  I feel like we were there at a very privileged time.  Their new parliament met for the first time and elected its president, and they celebrated the first year anniversary of the revolution.  There is much happening, and which way it will go is as yet uncertain.  For the friends and wonderful people I met while I was there, my fingers are crossed for a better life.  Here are some random observations:
1.  You've heard tourism is down - one tour guide said it was down 80%.  To put that in perspective, Kacy told me that when friends of hers went there two years ago, they had to get up at 5 in the morning to get to the pyramids early enough to avoid the crowds and get to climb up to the burial chamber in the great pyramid.  In contrast, we went in the middle of the day during high season, went right in, and had only 3 other people in the chamber when we were there.  While it was wonderful for us and we were treated so well, it has to be so difficult on a country whose GDP relies to a large extent on tourism.
2.  Speaking of that, everywhere we went, we saw huge projects that had been put on hold.  Some were government projects waiting for revenues to improve and the new government to be established, and some were by major corporations holding back on their money until they could see what way the wind was going to blow.  So economically, Egypt is experiencing at least a double whammy.  And given that we saw a number of people living on the edge, it does not auger well for their future.
3.  Despite that, people were cautiously optimistic.  They love their country and are hoping that the new democratically elected government will return Egypt to glory.  They are a bit nervous and impatient and suffer terribly when there is an abuse of power, but they maintain hope for a brighter future.
4.  Alexander the Great became the ruler of Egypt because he respected their religion while the (at that time) ruling Persians did not.  There is a lesson there that we need to learn.  Religion was very important to almost everyone we met and they were all well-educated, liberal Egyptians.
5.  Side note, if you travel, I would encourage you to be adventurous.  While it was cold at night when we slept in the desert, that was an especially magical day, and off the beaten track for most tourists!

Abul Simbel

6.  The people are exceptionally gracious.  It was wonderful to get a chance to talk for hours to our friends who were our guides and drivers, and they will forever be in my heart!

One more picture and comment:  that's me in front of Abul Simbel.  Since I was young and National Geographic magazine featured the danger of Abul Simbel being covered by the rising waters of Lake Nasser and the Aswan Dam, I have dreamed about being there.  I actually got tears in my eyes when I rounded the corner and there it was!  I still can hardly believe I was able to live my childhood dream.

Gostivar buried in snow

Now we're back in Macedonia, and just in time for a record snow and cold spell!  It's a hardship in a country which such a large percentage of people living below poverty.  We had one day where the temperature actually got above freezing for a few hours, and the ceiling in my apartment started to drip.  I called the landlord, who gave a Slavic shrug and said, "oh, well, it's an old building."  We've had a pile of snow, and I'm not looking forward to the thaw.  Besides the reappearance of the leak, it will be icy and there will be water everywhere.  On the bright side, the garbage may once again be picked up!

Downtown Gostivar shivering

Stay warm - I hear Spring is just around the corner!

Home for the Holidays

My beautiful 90 year old mom

As part of extending for a year, Peace Corps gives volunteers 30 days vacation and pays for a trip back to the US.  I did a SW loop, from Phoenix to visit my folks, to Riverside to see BFF Sherry, to San Francisco to see my younger sis and Chris and partners, and finally to Tahoe for the annual Wiggum Ski Fest.

It's hard to be so far from home, and especially so far from my parents during their last years.  My dad is not doing well, and it was difficult to see him so uncomfortable and in pain.  My mom, on the other hand, is now doing terrifically - look at that good looking woman!  We went out a couple of times for lunch, shared a PF Chang dinner in her room, and talked about everything, including current affairs.  I treasured every moment I got to spend with her!

Then on to SoCal for a great time with Sherry.  She owns an antiques and collectibles store that is such a slice of life.  I love going down there just to hang out and laugh, and laugh we always do.  The most precious moment was when one of her customers brought in his daughter and a friend of his.  He'd traded some work with Sherry and arranged to surprise them there with their Christmas presents.  He sat them down on two old rocking chairs and had Sherry bring out their wrapped gifts.  Watching their eyes light up as they unwrapped the treasures he'd picked out was a privilege and a joy - he'd done a wonderful job!  Every moment there was special - Ubaldo and his mom spoiled me, Jed and I had political discussions, and I was included in the movie clubs discussion of the movies and party!

Happy Hanukkah

Sherry and I then flew up to San Fran - her daughter, my son and my sister all live in the Bay area.  I feel like I ate my way through the city - so much delicious food.  I had my first steak in I can't remember how long - I do miss good cuts of beef deliciously prepared - as well as dim sum and the best sushi I've ever had!  People ask me what I miss in Macedonia food-wise.  Interestingly, I miss both ends of the spectrum.  I miss food that I can just instantly prepare when I don't feel like cooking - cheap, processed food (I'm ashamed to admit I had several packages of cheese out of Mac and Cheese boxes in my suitcase when I returned), and also the really expensive but wonderful variety of restaurant food.  San Francisco is foodie heaven.  Ilana's mom had two parties in the few days, a Hanukkah party and a birthday party, and was gracious enough to invite all the gathering Wiggums.  They were both delightful.

Matt, Kacy, Udi and I inspecting the lobsters

Yes, the Wiggums gathered:  On Christmas Day Matt flew down from Everett and Kacy and Udi came out from NYC for the annual Wiggum Ski Fest up in Tahoe.  We did forget to inform Tahoe that it was a ski fest - the weather up there was in the balmy 50's.  But enough resorts had been able to make snow and everyone sans moi had a great time boarding/skiing.  I had a great time walking, cooking, reading and relaxing.  And as a surprise, Santa Claws brought us a Maine Lobster dinner by express mail!  We feasted on lobster, crab cakes, clam chowder, salad and lava cake one night, and Dungeness crab, lobster, and fresh salmon the next.  Life is hard......It was so much fun hanging out with the family (my sis and partner came up one night), and as an added bonus I even came out ahead on poker!!!!!  Thanks, everyone for their contribution!

Now I'm back in Macedonia, and as a bonus, I got to celebrate a second Christmas.  Orthodox Christmas is on Jan. 7th, and Christmas eve here is a major celebration.  I took some American cookies over to my new neighbor across the hall, and received in return 4 pieces of Baklava.  Gordana's mom made the best bean casserole and sarma that I've ever eaten, and if I don't finish Peace Corps weighing 20 pound more than when I started I haven't tried!  I do love Gostivar.  I met my friend Ilmi at Luli's cafe, and sat and talked with him for a good hour or more drinking macchiatos and tea, then stayed after Ilmi left drinking another cup of tea that a friend of Luli's bought me and chatting some more!  Life here is good for me - it's easy-going and social.  I miss the ease of the US - being able to understand what's being said, knowing where to find things, being able to go where I want to go when I want to go there.  But when I leave here, I will miss the love from my local family, the people, and the warmth of every day life.  You never know what you will find when you join the Peace Corps.  I found a treasure trove.

I'm still here!!!!

Welcoming the Mak 16's at the new airport!

Hi, everyone,  After a long and busy absence, I'm back!  I was chosen as a trainer for cross-cultural lessons for the new group of volunteers, affectionately known as the Mak-16's.  That involved a week of training before they came, developing lesson plans, visiting them at their training sites where they lived with homestay families, and going and delivering sessions for them at Hub days, times when they all gathered at one location for general trainings.  It was great fun, but made for a hectic time because at the same time I was planning and executing the second Harvest Festival and, the biggest news (at least for me), traveling around Macedonia and Albania when Chris came for a visit!!!!  The new volunteers were sworn in on Thanksgiving, and now have been at site for a week.  They have 2 years of exciting adventures ahead!

Kerry and a group of Roma boys who ran

As I said, Luli and I planned and sponsored our second Harvest Festival.  Planning here has its challenges.  We work with people appointed by the central government as well as officials from the Municipality, two groups that don't always cooperate.  They were great and so helpful.  We also coordinate the race with the local sports education teachers, and since the race is on the first weekend of October, often they're just getting together for the first time not long before.  This year we ended up changing the date at the last minute and rearranging a few things, but it all came off well.  It's become a popular event and we had over two hundred people sign up.  Despite a slight drizzle, over 150 finished the race.  We moved the festival inside, and after the race went up to a local college and had a ball.  We had two wonderful cultural groups perform, and, even though I lack any sense of rhythm, they pulled me into to leading a round of the oro!  We also celebrated the Peace Corps 50th anniversary with a photo exhibit.

My friend Jamin helped us move things in his farm truck

Chris and Elona at Kruja by Skenderbeg's fortress

Chris came on Oct. 30th after a business trip to Italy, and the first thing he got to do was help me move into a new apartment.  I love my new apartment - I have drawers and a counter in the kitchen - woo woo!  Plus it's much more centrally located so it's easy for me to run over to Luli's new cafe (another big fall event) or to any gathering I need to attend.  After moving, Chris and I went to Albania with Luli's wife, my good friend, Elona.  It was wonderful.  We stayed at my friend Michael's in Tirana, a truly nice city.  We ate the best fish I've ever had which we picked out of a bucket that they passed around.  The next day we went to Skenderbeg's fortress in a town half way up a mountain called Kruja.  The weather was spectacular and the views were stunning.  Typical of Albanians, a taxi driver gave us a ride back to Tirana for the price of a bus fare after we missed the bus.  Albanians love Americans and are so generous.  If any of you get a chance to visit Albania, do it.  Finally, on our last day, we went to Durres, which is on the Adriatic Sea.  Elona has an aunt, uncle and cousins there, and I can't even begin to tell you how hospitable they were.  Needless to say we were stuffed with wonderful food and sampled the local rakija and wine until we could hardly move.  I think we all snoozed on the 5 hour bus ride back to Gostivar.

Chris looking at Sv. Jovan in Ohrid

Finally we took a road trip around Macedonia.  We sampled wine with Peace Corps friends and stayed at a winery, did a quick tour of Ohrid, again were hosted magnificently by my friend Tefik in Mavrovo national park and enjoyed each other's company and the company of friends.  Considering it was the first week of November, the weather was spectacular and warm the entire time, and Chris was amazed by how beautiful Macedonia is. He'd seen my pictures, but pictures never can capture its true magnificence.  I was so glad he could come and share a part of my life here.

Local football fans

I want to show you another picture because I love it!  As part of my job, we took pictures and supported a grant for a road to be paved to a new soccer field that the residents built in a village called Rechan.  Luli, his family and I went to one of the first games - so much fun.  It was a level three game between two local villages, so it was very personal.  Rechan won, and afterward the band, the team, and others danced the oro on the field.  I asked these guys what they used for face paint - lipstick and mascara.  You use what you got.  The flag, btw, is an Albanian flag - Rechani is an ethnic Albanian village in Macedonia.

The stockings were hung on the antlers with care

Now it's the holiday season, and needless to say, I have so much to be grateful for.  I've had such a good time here I've decided to extend for another year.  In a couple of weeks I'm flying home to visit my parents, kids, younger sister, and friend and the kids, their partners, and I, along with Matt, will spend the week between Christmas and New Year's up at Tahoe.  Then later in January, I'm off to Egypt on another dream trip - keep your fingers crossed that things will stay calm.  What a crazy life I'm leading at 65!  I couldn't resist decorating the new apartment for Christmas, so I'll leave you with my Christmas card picture and best wishes for a happy and loving holiday season!

Endings

Stork Nest at the beginning of summer

Endings always fill me with a sense of melancholy - a premature grief for what is passing.  This week marked two.

I mark each summer here by the storks.  I eagerly wait for their return in late spring and watch for them rebuilding their nests.  It is always amazing to me that they can perch their huge nests on top of telephone poles and chimneys, but they do.  There are 6 or 7 nests between Gostivar and Skopje that I have documented, and all summer I have watched their development:  return, eggs, hatching and growth.  As the babies get bigger, they perch on the side of the nest waiting for their parents and food.  Curiosity and bravery doesn't always pay off - if the babies fall from their high perches, they are doomed by their vulnerability and inability to fly.  But most make it and this year several of last year's babies returned to build new nests.

They're gone!

I walked to the edge of town yesterday to take pictures of the babies before they left to winter in North Africa, but I was too late.  Their exit marks the end of summer.  We'll still have some hot weather, and school doesn't start for another week, but change is in the air.  My second summer in Macedonia is drawing to a close.

Last week was also the Close of Service conference for my group, the Mak 14's.  We met for 3 days in Struga to talk about the technical side of ending service, and to select when individuals would actually leave for home.  Since I am extending for another year, it wasn't quite relevant for me yet, but it brought into focus that very soon most of the group I came with - my American family in Macedonia - will be gone.  Peace Corps spaces out times when people go, and the first three, two of whom were in my training group and one of whom is my site mate Jane, will be leaving the end of October.  I have many friends in the next group, and expect to make more in the new group that's arriving in just a few weeks, but there is a special bond with your own group that can't be replicated.  I shall miss them and the easy camaraderie.

The question we are all asking ourselves:  what should I do when I grow up?  I'm still wrestling with that - all suggestions welcomed!

Balkan Hospitality

I can't write enough about how wonderfully hospitable people are here.  Last weekend Lillian and I took a trip to Tirana, Albania, to see our friend Michael who is living there now.  We caught a bus early and arrived in Tirana around 3, much earlier than we thought.  We couldn't get Lillian's phone to work, and weren't sure how to get hold of Michael to tell him we'd arrived.  A family on the bus tried to help us call him, but when they, too, proved unsuccessful they invited us to come to their house so we weren't wandering the streets of Tirana.  When we said we'd be fine, they gave us their phone number just in case.

Michael at the bar at Xheckos.

That's the Adriatic see behind us

We went into a cafe that had wireless, and the waiters there helped us get signed on (have i mentioned i love my i-pad?) Ultimately we were able to contact Michael and find his apartment by the US embassy.  He took us to a spectacular new hotel in Tirana.  Tirana is a happening place - they are constructing all kinds of new factories and hotels and the night life is hopping! I remember thinking of Albania as a dark, mysterious and dangerous place when I was young, and now I love it.  It is a gorgeous country with wonderful people that is growing in leaps and bounds.  It has a long and spectacular coastline, and I hope to see more of it before I come home.
We went out for coffee the first night with one of the factory owners that Michael works with.  When he heard we wanted to go to the beach at Durres, he wouldn't hear of us going by bus.  He had to take us.  And not just any beach.  The Durres beach is too crowded, he said, so he took us instead to a private resort beach, along with his two kids and his wife.  This beach was spectacular, and we lounged on beach chairs and played in the water from about noon until 7 at night.  He and his wife took us to lunch at the beach and got us all kinds of wonderful things.
After our full day at the beach we stopped at an enormous new mall outside of Tirana and had dinner at the food court - we could have been anywhere in the States except for the Albanian Fried Chicken (AFC) and Kolonad, which looked suspiciously like a McDonald's.

The big pool with the restaurant on the hill in the back

The next day Harry and the kids took us to another water park - this one a country club like place.  It had a couple of huge pools, horses, tennis, table tennis, pool, and a great restaurant.  We laid by the pool, swam, read our books, went down the slide, and ate.  It was a luxurious and relaxing weekend - definitely not the weekend I was picturing we were going to have.  I don't know what Harry and his family had planned for the weekend, but they shifted everything at the last minute so they could give us the best time ever.  It was amazing, and I will forever remember their generosity.

Summer in Macedonia

Ahhh, summer in Macedonia.  The weather is hot and steamy, and things move slowly.  Everyone comes alive at night after the sun goes down and it cools off.  The diaspora are home visiting, so the city is alive.  Ramazan starts in two weeks, so now is the time to eat and make merry!

Blake, Linda, Sam me and Happie in front of the State Dept. logo.

And I have been making merry.  I went to two events for the 4th of July, the annual embassy party on July 2nd and then our own private 4th of July outside of Gostivar.   While for the most part we are not supposed to commingle with embassy staff, the 4th of July is the exception.  They do it up for the Americans (along with many Macedonians that they work with), and we enjoyed traditional American burgers and hot dogs along with beer, wine, soft drinks, salads and desserts.  And look at that great group of volunteers! 

White mulberries

For the 4th, Kerry and I went out to our friend Vjosa's family house along with her cousin Marta.  The house is in the village of Belovishte right outside of Gostivar, and it is in such a gorgeous spot in the country.  Her dad has created one of the most beautiful vegetable gardens I have ever seen - I was jealous and missed my own gardening days, though my gardens were sad affairs in comparison.  When we arrived we feasted on white mulberries from a huge mulberry tree - have you ever heard of them?  I hadn't, and they were so sweet and refreshing.  We barbecued hamburgers and hot dogs, ate potato and macaroni salad, and had peach pie for dessert - yum.  We celebrated in style with glow sticks and sparklers.

Mickey signing the big red book confirming their marriage

The bride and her mom dancing the oro

A few days later I had the privilege of going to my friend Gordana's wedding.  She had a traditional Macedonian wedding and we were able to see all parts of it.  Macedonians actually have two weddings, one civil ceremony, usually at the municipality, and then a church wedding.  Gordana's civil ceremony was on Thursday.  She arrived at the Municipality with family and they all danced the oro to the steps of the municipality.  The civil ceremony was short, and everyone returned to her house for a big feast.  Her church wedding was on Sunday.  It's interesting to think about how weddings reflect culture.  While we 'give' away the bride and the couple go off to their new life alone, Macedonian weddings reflect their communal culture.  On Sunday the bride was sequestered in her room, and her groom's friends came and kept slipping money under the door to get her to come out.  Everyone, in the meantime, is crowded around waiting for her appearance and, of course, enjoying lots of food and drink.  When the bride is finally 'convinced' to come out, she bows at the door of her parent's house 3 times to demonstrate her respect for her family.  Then everyone dances the oro in front of the house for awhile, before the groom arrives and they head off to the church. 

The church ceremony was beautiful.  The bride and groom don't say anything during the service - it's all chanting by the priest and a cantor.  There are many parts to it - the blessing and exchanging of the rings, switching crowns, communion, and circling the table holding the holy book and bowing to it from all directions.  I'll attach a short clip so you can get an idea of it.  Afterwards we went to a big restaurant, had a wonderful meal, and danced the oro all night! A couple of days later the bride and groom went on their honeymoon to the Albanian 'Riveria', accompanied by a group of their friends.

The spartan shepherd's cottage

Judging cheese

The view from Galichnik

On to Sheep Day up in the high pasture on Mount Bistra!  Luli was in charge this year, so we were much more involved than last year, and I got to know some of the major players.  Ten PCV's came, and it was wonderful to share the fun with them.  Luli put me in charge of monitoring and helping out the cheese-judging, and I was delighted because I had missed that last year and really wanted to see it.  It was held in the shepherd's cottage, and I had always been curious to see how the shepherds lived while they spent their summers in the mountains.  They were as sweet and accommodating as could be.  There were milking and shearing contests, Turkish wrestling, local Macedonian and Albanian entertainment groups and a horse race.  The day was perfect, and it was nice to be up in the cooler mountain air.  At the end we partied in the organizers tent and shared rakija, lamb and other goodies with everyone.  Day of the Raisers of Sheep ad Goats kicks off the the weekend of the Galichnik wedding, a famous festival in Macedonia, and after we were done I went up to Galichnik with some friends and looked around.  The festivities didn't start until that night, but people had started arriving and it was fun to see the village and feel all that energy.  It's high, high up in the mountains.  People no longer live there year round, but many still have summer places there and once a year a huge group of tourists come up to watch the wedding celebration.  I had a great day filled with activities, old friends and new friends.  Who could ask for more?